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Archive for July, 2010

Sony CDX-GT270s Wiring (How to Install a Front Loader)

Recently I replaced the rather embarassing Panasonic cassette tape player in my Mercedes 190E with a new sony CDX-GT270 front loader head unit. I was concerned to find that the wire harness supplied with the sony unit did not look exactly like the Panasonic’s harness and my enquiries at the electronics shop were met with an attitude of “if you have to ask you really should get someone else to install it for you”. But it only required a little research (just to err on the side of caution) and I managed to get it working and save myself a little cash too.

The process was pretty simple in fact, all I needed to do was:
1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the car battery
2. Slide the Panasonic cassette player out of the console using the release keys
3. Cut the wires off the old Panasonic harness one by one and crimp them onto the matching colours on the sony harness
4. Plug the harness into the sony head unit and connect the antenna
5. Slide the sony unit into place
6. Reconnect the car battery

I can’t believe I almost paid someone else to do it. You don’t even need to know exactly what colour wire does what, but for the sake of being thorough – the car audio wiring standard is as follows:


white : front left (+)
white/black striped : front left (-)
grey : front right (+)
grey/black striped : front right (-)

green : back left (+)
green/black striped : back left (-)
purple : back right (+)
purple/black striped : back right (-)

black : negative / ground
blue : antenna up/down
red : igntition (+)
yellow : battery (+)
blue/white striped : AMP on/off

Useful car audio links:
Sony XR4950X Car Stereo Installation
Home and Car Audio Answers

Download Sony CDX-GT370/s CDX-GT270/s CDX-GT160/s manual
Download Sony CDX-GT370/s CDX-GT270/s CDX-GT160/s installation

Car Stereo Installation Guide part 2

Prepping the new stereo

An introduction to the amps!

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= Amplifiers take the signal from the main unit and is large enough to be able to drive the speakers. It is preferable to use separate amps for high and low frequencies, but not necessary. The problem with the use of an amplifier for all frequencies is that you can adjust the levels between the different frequency ranges as easily as you can adjust the outputs of separate amps. Many people start their system with an amplifier to frequncies low (bass) and use their head units built-in power for the speakers at higher frequencies. This approach is appropriate, but an integrated power unit is usually not strong enough to listen at high volume and not clean enough for the most demanding ears. There are many options when choosing an amplifier.

power?
There are different ways in which power is measured by amplifier manufacturers to believe that their amps have more power than others. The laws of physics tell us that power can be obtained by multiplying current and voltage. For example, if the amplifier is 2 volts and 20 amps is based, then the power would be 240 watts, right? Not exactly. Globally, real  amplifiers waste 50% or more of power in the as heat. This leaves you with only 20 watts. <

= “text-align: justify”> What do something more complicated than that. There are different ways to measure power. Power can be measured up and down the signal (Peak, or Max, etc.) Another way of measuring the power is equal to zero in the upper half (usually called the power of music.) The most accurate way to measure power is RMS (Root Mean Square) watts. The effective value is obtained by squaring the value of the signal, taking the average, then the square root. This is equivalent to the power actually delivered. Most reputable manufacturers use the RMS rating.

to get the RMS peak power or just divide by three. Power Music is only half the peak power. For example, an amplifier has an output of 00 W (peak) per channel. The power of music itself is only 50W per channel. RMS power is 33W per channel. There is a difference, right? Be careful when checking specifications of amps before buying, to see what you’re really getting. Formalize RMS power amplifier. <

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Footer> with unrealistic conditions, for example calculating power at 5 volts, 2 ohms, 0% distortion, etc. Be sure to check the actual voltages and loads.

How I can know I have a
shop for brands?. Look at the size, weight of the amplifier. The more power the amp off, more heat is lost, and the larger area will need to dissipate heat (radiators are bigger). This alone is not sufficient to determine if the amplifier is good or not. Beware of companies that use more heat sink than needed, which gives the idea of a more powerful amplifier.

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style p <= "text-footer"> Check the fuses are connected to the amplifier, or specified by the instruction manual. If you see a 400W amplifier with a 5 amp fuse must be suspect. Remember what was said above, multiply the size of fuse around 6 (2v 50% efficiency), and give you a rough idea of what you are trying to terms of RMS maximum power possible.

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What power do I need?
For medium and high, between 30 and 50 watts (RMS) per channel would be minimal. For the following years it takes at least 80 to 50 watts (or more) per subwoofer. must always be more total power going to the subwoofers than the rest of the speakers, since the human ear is more sensitive to higher frequencies than low. For example, if you have 4 x 50 watts going to all means and tweeters (total = 200 W), then you must be at least 200 W or more going to your submarine.
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Many people wonder if the power amplifier too much can burn the speakers. What damages speakers most of the time is distortion, not power. If your speakers have adequate crossings and are not distorted, it is very difficult for them to explode. A bigger amp just gives you the opportunity to go to higher volumes without distortion. Get the biggest amplifiers you can afford and your car’s electrical system can handle. More power means louder sound, but more importantly, the style of your own

p <= "text-align: justify;". style = “font-size: 00%”> What else should you look for in a b>